Mural Resources

 
 
Paintbrush on paint can

Image via Arken Studios

“What Do You Use For Your Murals?”

 

Since painting my first mural in 2019, I often get questions or DMs asking for help with murals. Whether it be the materials or actual process of painting. So instead of that info living in my sent DMs, I’m using this blog post as a go-to for those interested in learning more about how I approach painting a mural. Keep in mind I’m no expert, but I’ve shared what brush pens I use and my iPad Pro resources in the past so hopefully this is helpful, too.

Also, shoutout to my homies Ndubisi and Adé for doing the same thing with their platforms. Art shouldn’t be this exclusive hush hush thing. Inspire and share your knowledge with those who want to listen. It’ll lead to a lot more change than hoarding that info ever will… Okay, now I’m rambling. But before we get into it, you should know that some of the links provided below are affiliate links. This means by purchasing through the link provided, I will receive a small commission, at no extra charge to you. Now that the ~legalities~ are out of the way, let’s get into it.

 

Materials

Primer

Gotta have a solid foundation. Primer is a must. It’s a base coat that allows the paint to adhere to your surface and ultimately last longer. It also helps give you an even, solid surface to paint on. No one wants a mural where the same color looks different in random places because the wall wasn’t primed. Some paints have a primer & paint mixture that lets you skip the priming step and save you some time. If the wall is a solid color from the start, using the paint & primer combo could save a lot of time, but having a “blank canvas” will ensure that your colors are uniform throughout. Up to you on which direction you want to use, but if time allows, I prefer using a stand alone primer first.

Pro-Tip: Before prepping your wall, make sure there are no peeling areas of old paint or material. If there are, contact the owner to see if they’re okay with you scraping this off if possible. If it’s a bigger issue, ask them if they can repair before painting. This always isn’t the budget, especially if they’re a mom+pop shop, but do your due diligence here. You don’t want to create a beautiful piece of work only for it to peel a couple months later. Not only is that hard work ruined, but it also makes you look bad as a professional artist.


Outdoor Paint

Some people are brand loyalists, like my fellow creative Ndubisi Okoye, who recommends Behr One Coat Matte paint; but to be honest, I haven’t painted enough murals to give a solid recommendation yet, but here are a couple of qualities I make sure the paint has before I buy:

It has to be Anti-fading for added longevity
It has to be Anti-yellowing to retain it’s vibrancy
It has to be Crack/Peel Resistant to stand up to the elements.

These features will not only give your mural a longer life but also will keep you from having to apply multiple touchups to keep it vibrant and legible.

Pro-Tip: When buying your paint, make sure all of your finishes match. I use matte or eggshell…or satin at the very most, while some other monsters people prefer glossy or high gloss finishes. I stick to the matte/lower gloss options just to make sure my lettering remains legible without worrying about glare.

 

Plastic or Paper Lining / Tarp

If you’re getting paid for a mural, you want to be as professional as possible. One aspect of this is keeping your workspace and mural area as clean as possible. Purchase tarp or plastic lining to cover up any paint drips or off spray that may accidentally happen. The mural should be the only thing that paint goes on. Besides your clothes of course. Speaking of the only thing paint goes on…

 

Gloves

What a segue! Big profesh blog energy right there. Okay, let’s get back on track... I didn’t realize how truly time-saving and essential gloves are when you’re painting for hours. It may feel weird at first, but easily taking your gloves off to eat with clean hands, use the bathroom or take a quick call/text will save you time and soap vs. having to scrub your hands whenever you need to take a break. I try to go for powder-free gloves but to each their own!

 

Paint Brushes

Full disclaimer: I know that brushes are subjective amongst artists so I feel the need to mention that I’m not an brush snob by any means. I don’t think you need the fanciest brushes to create something beautiful, nor do you need the biggest or smallest bristles. I prefer angled and square brushes for tackling outlines but I know other artists who prefer round and fan brushes for doing the same thing. It’s all about trying them and getting a feel for what you like as you complete more and more projects.

One of my favorite as of late though is the Zibra Square Brush. It was suggested by fellow muralist/creative Jeremy Kemp and pulling lines with this brush is so fulfilling. Just look at these line pulls below.

WIP line pulls from my SCC Mural.

WIP line pulls from my SCC Mural.

Pretty nice line consistency, right?! I know, I know, I know, i’m the brush is great. Anyways, back to the info. The three sizes you’ll generally need are:

A small one for touchups and details.

A medium one for small fills

A large for covering spaces in a timely manner.

The actual sizes of your brushes will depend on the size and intricacy of the mural you’re painting but keep these areas of coverage in mind. You don’t want to have only small brushes and need to paint a huge block of color. You’ll be out there forever.

If you have any favorite brushes, let me know and I’ll add them to the list.

Pro-Tip: If budget allows, purchase multiple brushes as a safety precaution. You never know what could happen on site — your brush could fray (the worst), dry out or get swooped up by a crow who’s really into the color mauve… No matter the situation, having multiple brushes on-site will keep you in the flow and out of traffic, panicking about losing precious sunlight.

 

Paint Rollers + Extender

If you’re painting huge areas of color or priming, these are ESSENTIAL. Essential I tell you. Also, do yourself a favor and buy a paint roller extender, too. It’s a pole you attach to your paint roller. Not only does it allow you to reach higher places without a ladder or scaffold, it will greatly help your arms and back from aching.

Most paint rollers will note on the packaging if it is meant for smooth or rough surfaces but the rule of thumb is: the smoother the material, the less “nap” you’ll need on your roller.

More nap = more paint on the roller = more coverage on rougher textures.

You don’t want to have a high nap roller on a smooth surface unless you like the old leather/stucco look.

 

Painters Tape

If your mural artwork has a lot of hard edges, use painters tape to keep a crisp edge instead of free-handing it. I recommend Frog tape. From my experience it gives the most consistent masking when removing without the paint bleeding underneath. They also have a version for delicate surfaces.

Also, when using painters tape, give the paint a while to settle/dry. If you remove it right after you paint over it you risk the paint shifting or bleeding through and it won’t give you the hard edge you’re looking for.

 

Projector / Guides

If you have intricate work or need your mural to look exactly like you pitched your client, invest in a projector. Not only is it time efficient and precise, it also takes the headache out of accurate measuring or drawing a standard grid. All you have to do is project your original artwork, trace it with chalk, a carpenter pencil, Sharpie or paint marker.

Some people even paint directly from their projection without tracing over it. I’d suggest tracing everything out first though before painting, especially if you cant paint it all in one day. It may seem slower compared to directly painting from your projection, but this way, once it’s done, you know you have an accurate outline and can focus on painting. If you’re painting using the projector as your guide, you’ll have to worry about setting up the projector each day you’re painting and realigning it for each session to make sure you’re artwork is consistent. Not to mention, any power outages could stifle your progress. Just get it out of the way at first and you won’t have to worry about any power/alignment issues down the road.

If you can’t afford a projector, there are some companies that allow you to rent one. For first time muralists, this can be a great alternative if you find one for <$40/day. I say less than $40 because I use a “cheap” $60 projector from Walmart that hasn’t let me down yet! When looking for one just make sure that it’s at least 1080p so you’re images can be sharp when tracing and that it covers the width of the mural you’re painting. If budget allows, also try to get a stand for your projector. This will let you position it without having to worry about distorted images or having to find something to place your projector on. (been there, done that)

 

Short Throw Projectors:
For murals that are in really confined spaces or hallways, a traditional mural may not cover it without distorting your artwork. For these situations, you’ll need to use a short throw projector. Basically it doesn’t need as much room to project the image as a traditional projector. It’s “throwing” the image at a shorter distance. Makes sense, right? These are more expensive than normal projectors so if this option is out of your budget, you may want to look into the doodle grid method or the more intricate pounce pattern. You can see an example of the pounce pattern technique on Social Dropout’s Instagram.

 

Doodle Grid:
The doodle grid method is a more efficient way of scaling up your artwork compared to drawing out a standard grid. Check out how muralists IAmDetour and TenHun use doodle grids for their murals.

 

Sealant

Most outdoor paints have a life expectancy of 5-10 years but if you want your paint to last a bit longer you can use a sealant. Make sure it’s anti-fading, anti-yellowing and matches the sheen/finish of the paint you used. You don’t want to be that person spraying a glossy finish on a matte mural…or maybe you do? IDK, artistic liberties, I guess.

Anti-graffiti Sealant
If you’re painting in high-traffic public area and are worried that your piece may be vandalized, look into anti-graffiti sealant. It’ll keep you from having to repaint to fix your mural.

 

That’s it! That’s all I got. I hope this was helpful! If so, let me know how your mural turned out. I’m always excited to see public art. Especially from new and upcoming artists. Have a question not answered here? Shoot me a tweet. Take care!

 

Originally posted 11.22.21
3.2.24 - Updated reviews, links and resources

 
Adrian Meadows